Asscher-Cut Lab-Grown Diamond 4×4 mm, Loose

An Asscher-cut lab-grown diamond, 4 x 4 mm, D to F color, VVS clarity, sold individually. The same step cut as the 3.5 x 3.5 version, but clearly larger.

Half a millimetre changes the whole effect

Going from 3.5 to 4 mm sounds like a small step, but the face becomes wide enough to cut extra tiers. The signature Asscher hall-of-mirrors effect — nested squares running deep into the center — only becomes clearly visible at this size when viewed straight on.

So if you're choosing an Asscher for exactly that look, 4 x 4 is the smallest size worth buying. Below it the shape is still lovely, but it becomes just a clean square stone.

As the center of a minimalist piece

At this size the stone is large enough to stand alone on a plain band or a square pendant. Asscher cuts suit designs with few details: the more accent stones around it, the more its depth gets lost, because the eye is pulled outward.

It's also a popular shape for men's rings, since its square lines and subdued brilliance suit them better than a round.

Ordering and setting

Listed in millimetres in two dimensions because it's square; there's no ly size. Both dimensions are equal, so there's no orientation to choose, but our setter still aligns the edges parallel to the band — with straight-edged shapes, a few degrees off shows immediately.

The seat is cut as an octagon to hold the four cut corners. A princess seat of the same measurements can't be reused, because a princess has sharp corners and an Asscher has cut ones.

Care

Wash with warm water and a soft brush, brushing along the facet tiers. This shape loses brilliance far more visibly when dirty than brilliant cuts do, because dust clouds the overlapping layers of reflection.

Cut corners are sturdy, but it's still best to take it off for heavy work, especially when set on a ring worn on your dominant hand.