Natural Diamonds

On a GIA certificate, the four lines that decide the price are carat weight, colour, clarity and cut. The cut grade already scores proportions, polish and symmetry, but to be frank: two stones both graded Excellent can still catch light differently. The certificate describes a stone very precisely, but it can't replace looking at the real stone in ordinary light before deciding.

Buyers in Vietnam are used to describing round stones by "ly" — the diameter in millimetres. A few common sizes: 3.9 mm is about 0.22–0.23 carat; 4.5 mm about 0.35 carat; 5.4 mm about 0.63 carat. Describing by diameter only works for round stones. Elongated shapes like oval, emerald or baguette must be described by carat, because at the same weight their face-up size can vary quite a lot.

D, E and F colours are all in the colourless group; side by side they're very hard to tell apart with the naked eye, and the difference only shows when compared directly against a standard white background. IF and VVS1 clarity both need ten-times magnification to see any inclusions. To be frank: the price difference between IF and VVS1 buys almost no difference you can see when wearing — putting it into size is far more visible. Cut, on the other hand, is where you shouldn't compromise, because it decides how the stone catches light and the naked eye notices immediately.

Compared with lab-grown diamonds: the two are the same in composition, hardness and how they disperse light; they differ in origin and price. At the same specifications, a lab-grown stone costs about 60–70% less, so for the same budget you can buy a much larger stone. In return, natural diamonds have a finite supply and a longer-established resale market. No choice is right for everyone: if you prioritise size within your budget, choose lab-grown; if you're buying to keep for a long time and pass down in the family, choose natural.

When choosing a stone for a setting, consider your everyday habits too. Stones of 3.9 to 4.5 mm suit rings worn often and earrings, because the low setting catches hair and clothing less. From 5.4 mm up, the setting has to be higher to give the stone room to catch light — more glamorous but also easier to knock; if you work a lot with your hands, choose a low setting or a bezel around the stone. Ring, earring and pendant settings are all made in our own workshop, so the ring size and setting height can be adjusted to the exact stone you choose.

Diamond is the hardest material in nature, but hard doesn't mean unbreakable: a knock right on an edge can still chip it, so take your ring off for sports or heavy work. What dulls a stone fastest is actually skin oil, lotion and soap collecting on its underside. Wash it with warm water and a little mild soap, brush gently with a soft brush and pat dry, and the stone will sparkle again. When storing, keep each piece separate, because diamonds scratch gold and most other stones.